Ok so Im not the only guest in the hotel, there more bees and 2 tortoises living here too! (Maybe Ben Kingsley is tucked away somewhere too! Harem Reference.)
The manager has got wind of my interest in natural history, presumably from his friend of a friends brother!
More giant honey bees hanging high up on the building which he very proudly indicated. Next I was introduced to the resident tortoises, Ive never seen anything like them, I suspect they are turtles but, I really didn’t know. They seemed to have soft pliable shells.

Anyway today we hired a jeep and a driver to take us to Durga’s ancestral homeland in Baglung district. This is why he wanted his farm there and of course he has relatives there.
It was going to be a long drive and it’s just amazing how it goes from flat land to steep hills in a matter of moments, there is no gradual incline, I don’t think I will ever get used to that.
We stopped for lunch with Durga’s Brother-in-law. He own’s a shop perched precariously on the edge of a road over a ravine.
I say that like its unusual, its not, everywhere in the mountains is like this. Buildings just waiting to slide into a void…..but NOT TODAY!

I love Durga’s brother-in- law! He has a european style toilet and toilet paper, Yay!
Small thing please simple minds! I really haven’t worked this out yet, can anyone give me a clue? I’m too embarrassed to ask here.
In the toilets (mostly the squatting sort), there is no paper so what do people do? I understand there is water to clean yourself especially if its not a wee but, how do you dry yourself? I haven’t seen any men with wet trouser bums! Do the women just drip dry under their skirts? What do they do? Its a mystery!
I bought my own loo paper and keep a sheet handy, just so you know!

Back to our hosts, the rooftop kitchen garden was inspiring, fruit and vegatables growing out of troughs and pots, hanging overhead and providing shade.

Dinner was fantastic, all except for the tinniest bit of Szechuan pepper chutney, which made me, cough, gasp and my nose run instantly! My God the police need this for for an imcapacitant spray! Everyone laughed at the softie European coughing, dabbing her eyes and nose!
There was a local delicacy of dried, smoked fish from the local river along with home made pickles and chutney. Chutney is different to what we have, it’s more like a spicy salsa or sauce and each one is completely different.


The women of the house ran around us pushing more food, the men (and I seem to count as one of them) are fed first and fed far too much.
Its their custom and takes a bit of getting used to. That said, I have seen a real division of labour here, men and women working on the roads, in the fields etc. The women seem to have the lion’s share of the home labour though, as in all cultures I think!
When we left, they gave me fruit and biscuits, in case I get hungry, not a chance, I could be rolled to Baglung, I was so full!
But, by far the best gift and the most precious was a whole fat toilet roll! You have no idea how difficult it is to buy a toilet roll here. Durga’s brother in law, had lived in England and he completely understood, without me saying a thing! I LOVE HIM!
Next…… arrival in Durgas ancestral homeland.
That eating area looks stunning, both views and food! Glad you didn’t get stung …. And do you ever find out about the hygiene dilemma…..? I’m catching up slowly! You can buy loo rolls with jokes on them, perhaps you could send one to Durga’s brother for a laugh 😆
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That’s certainly a thought. I think I worked it out though, dry with your hand ✋ not perfect but no loo roll required. Not for me 😳
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