Nepal 37, New Year’s Eve

Just to put your minds at rest, I am still alive. However I’ve finally succumbed to Kathmandhu belly! It started on New Year’s Eve. I ate fairly early and not wanting to run the gauntlet of drunks that evening I decided to spend the evening watching the new “Knives Out” film on my phone.

I’d returned to the original cheap hotel that I like but, blimey it was colder indoors than out. I just couldn’t get warm. I ended up fully clothed, doubled over duvet, and sleeping bag. Then I started getting stomach cramps. They seemed to have cleared by morning and I had warmed up under all the bedding. I got up late and went to do something I’ve never done before (Alison suggested it) I went for a pedicure! I had booked it the day before at this clean looking place and arrived on time but, the shop wasn’t open, ahh ‘Nepali time’ I thought (this is actually a thing, I remember it from my days in Aldershot)! I waited for half a hour then a young woman arrived full of apologies as she didn’t have the key. Anyway finally she managed to open the door and I have the most relaxing hour and a half. My feet have never looking quite so sparkling, I’m just sad it’s too cold to show them off!

Going back to Nepali Time, I met a European woman with Nepali partner. She and I got into quite a conversation about the concept of time here. Trades people will often say tomorrow but mean whenever, I used to have meetings with the Nepali community and Durga would set the meeting time and then tell me to turn up an hour late because no one would be there.

The woman said it took her a long time to realise her partner was not being disrespectful when he failed to turn up or do something on time. Of course this all depends on relationships you have here, friends can definitely wait, they will understand!

Anyway my tum was on off weird for several days and infuriatingly just when I was about to catch a flight to India.

I wandered back to Kathmandhu Durbar Square as I knew I’d missed the Hanuman Dokha museum (there is almost too much to see here and it’s like eating a very rich cake), so I went to put that right. Well it is by far the most interesting palace in the square. It was quiet when I went in, there has been a lot of earth quake damage here and a lot of renovation.

Royalty and religion go hand in hand. The Malla Dynasty ruled from 1200 to the 1700s in Kathmandhu Valley, and the oldest building here was built by them in 1600s.

The buildings look very dark to me and it would have been lovely to see what they are like inside but I don’t think they are safe enough.

This pool above was quite extraordinary and well below ground level, I couldn’t find anything about it or the serpent towering over it. I’m guessing she/he is a Naga or Nagini (nothing to do with Harry Potter at all) these are demi – deities who are worshipped as beneficial to humans, recognised in both Hinduism and Buddhism.

I wandered about the museum at the back of the complex and looked at all the gold and silver finery, the palanquins, which looked way to small to be comfortable, I think they must have been generally smaller people then. Smaller? I’m tall here at 5 feet 4 inches!

Anyway next…. I’m dipping my fantastically sparkling toes into India!