Still feeling a bit out of sorts, I have my first day of touring with Kansar. Foreigners have to have a permit to visiting Sikkim, I’m not sure why but, it seems to be a formality and mine was organised by the tour company. I have to present this with my passport at the first place we visit, Rumtek Monastery. It’s high on the opposite side of the Valley to Gantok. There are soldiers all around this site and Kansar leaves me to walk up the steep hill to the buildings.
Wowee! It’s very oriental a sort of fortified temple with a courtyard, the main temple ahead and most imposing. Then there are buildings to accommodate the Monks and their learning. I take my shoes off to enter.
I’ve never been in a Buddhist Monastery before, it’s simple and heavily decorated at the same time. I’m only allowed to photograph outside and I would have loved to show you the interior. There is a lot of red and gold. Statues of Buddha of course and photos of Lamas past and present. There are fantastic fabric hangings that look like ties sewn together, their points down. The seating is rows of straight benches with carpet along the top facing the center instead of Buddha. The walls are very decorated with pictures and patterns all stories of Buddha’s journey and other deities I think.
There are several monks, some of them children wandering about. I go outside and up behind the temple to the golden stupa! Removing my shoes again, I go into a modest room full of Monks playing instruments and chanting. I think I’m supposed to do something but, I have no idea what. I do know an offering is acceptable so I put rupees in the donation box sat in front of an effigy of Buddha, watch for a while then leave.
Outside I’m stood by another highly decorated building that appears to be a school for the Monks. A horn is sounding and children are chanting. I have no idea what they are chanting but children being children, it’s with gusto and off key. Somewhere on this hillside a low horn is sounding low and primordial. I feel very strange and out of place here.
While it feels peaceful (aside from an electric saw screaming away somewhere) I found out the reason for all the soldiers was because there are different Buddhist denominations and there are two in conflict here. Belief is a tricky thing!!
If you want to see the most amazing danced at Rumtek check this link out https://youtu.be/Xfiquyo23pI
Later we visit another Monastery and Stupa Dordul Chholten. Here is a growing Buddha Statue, miracle!……. As the woman ahead of me was saying or in my most cynical mind likely to be subsidence. Sorry unable to photograph inside.
Back in Gantock I go in a cable car! I’ve never been in one as far as I can remember. This is not very James Bond though, only a short ride full of families to see the landscape and the mountains, if it’s isn’t hazy, which it is. What does interest me is the unoccupied hills to the east Nathu La Nathang Valley Natural Reserve. I wonder if you can hike there? See I’m already planning a return trip!
The Travelling Bee 