Nepal 64, Leaving the Farm

Another early start of course. I had slept but, when I woke my hips hurt from the hard bed. Kriti’s parents were well into to their chores by the time we emerged. You’ll be relieved to know I didn’t try heating the mash again.

A woman who had come to the house the night before (full of curiosity about me I think and initially convinced I was a man) was in the yard and trying to talk to me. She had a grating voice and inquisitorial. I’m afraid ducked into the bedroom until she went away. Kriti asked me if she had gone yet, so I wasn’t the only one who felt bombarded. Later Kriti explained that the night before the same woman who had sat by the door before dinner and bombarded me with questions, was of a low caste which is why she did not come in, Kriti said it is discrimination that is still ongoing. She couldn’t tell me at the time because of the language barrier. I don’t think Kriti’s parents bother with such things (certainly Kriti doesn’t) however, I think it’s so culturally ingrained, the woman would not cross the threshold, she did however accept food for her daughter when it was being dished up for everyone. Had I known I would have tried a bit harder to communicate with her.

After breakfast of a sort of slightly sweet donut, several boiled eggs and sweet masala tea, Kriti took me for a walk around the area.

The Rhododendrons are just starting to flower now and will be in full bloom in a month or so covering the hillside with various shades of pink and red. Kriti insisted on picking me some. It’s very hard to explain that I would rather the flower remained on the tree, so I accepted them gracefully. It is quite literally a rhododendron forest, the flowers mostly high above in the canopy. The Rhododendron is Nepal’s National Flower.

It’s a very peaceful place. Well it was until a little girl about 4 years old came wailing past us, her mother scolding her from a road above. When the mother turned her back the girl turned and went back up the hill in absolute fury, only to get a switch across the legs (trousered) and escorted back by her very harassed parent who was trying to collect fodder.

We wandered around the village, complete with Hindhu and Buddhist places. Then we walked through to what Kriti described as common land. A huge relatively flat area of grassland, (now as dry as our summer lawns) a place that all the people can graze their animals. Apparently in a few months time it will be teaming with flowers.

Back at the farm, Chini had killed a chicken for our dinner (this is a real honour) and was efficiently plucking it in the yard. Later we had the hapless chicken in a rather spicy and delicious curry. I was offered some Raksi but, the thought of Raksi on top of the spicy chicken and a very bumpy bus ride to come was not to be borne.

Afterwards I sat in the sun watching a Hen Harrier and a couple of black shouldered Kites ‘mixing it’ with a house crow and sending clouds of pigeons up in alarm as they swooped and dived in what was a very aerobatic display. Much of it I saw from above as they battled it out down in the valley. I cannot tell you how vast the world looks here!

Kriti went to cut sugar cane for her kids. I’ve never tried it before, and after peeling it with my teeth and not quite understanding how to eat or chew it, it was amazingly sweet. Kriti was very adept with her reaping hook.

Kriti’s father was mending a basket, a conical carrier made of Bamboo, I’m disappointed my picture didn’t come out so you cannot see it. Her mother, just like my parents would do, loaded her bag up with vegetables, so much so, it took two of us to carry it up to the bus.

During the morning I had left my Rhododendrons out, I didn’t think about the goats and of course they had demolished it. So when it was time to leave and Kriti and I were lugging the bag of veg up the hill, Chini insisted Kriti go into a patch of jungle to get some more flowers. I was quite anxious as it was so steep and then she had to climb a tree to get the flowers. I could really see the girl she was when she lived here with her parents, everything was so natural to her. She clambered back with a large bunch which I carried all the way back on the bus and have in my room now.

We said our goodbyes eventually. I had had an amazing time and feel it was such a privilege to have fleetingly stepped back in time and to have met Kriti’s parents. I hope I can come back here one day.

I will leave you with some photos of the home. I did get to see upstairs but it is now mostly used for storage of vegetables. Kriti told me that once she married she was not allowed to enter the bedroom she had slept, that is the tradition. The rooms were quite dark with a wooded partition but much the same as the ground floor. There are no friparies, or personal effects, it’s spare and everything has a use!

The thing hanging on the right is a floor knife, you cut down onto it, no chopping board required.
Kriti making tea on the gas stove
The water butt I used for drinking water!
These two kids (brother and sister) untethered would come into the house all the time.
The white tub on the left is used for washing

9 thoughts on “Nepal 64, Leaving the Farm

  1. Hi Debs
    Just loving all the detail and culture you bring us from Nepal…..it’s been a fascinating journey with you meeting so many kind and interesting people. Durga and Kriti being 2 of them. I think I would have laughed, in fact I did thinking of you over boiling the mash with nothing on your feet but plastic slip one’s! The Wedding was fascinating and why do we not take the time to make a salad like the picture you took? It looked as if it should be in Home and Country Magazine! Kriti is very pretty and has a sense of humour 🤔 although she would have to being with you!! The sleeping bag episode and your feet hanging off the end of the bed took me right back to camping in the New Forest and I awoke to find I had nearly strangled myself as it had twisted in the night…freezing cold and thinking WHAT am I doing here! Awe well that’s what happens when you take on that responsibility! I have never been camping ever since it was traumatic 😂😂😂!
    As for Chicken stew We all know where they come from …the supermarket or butcher’s lol….it reminds me of our French family who showed us a baby gosling that was ambling around their field…..the following year Daniel took us proudly to the oven where he explained in French that it was the baby that they had grown especially for when we returned the following year! I looked at the goose and all I could see was a small fluffy gosling from the year before…however dinner is dinner!
    I have enjoyed the video clips and pictures which give such a picture of tradition and life
    I think what is extremely evident is that they have so little in the way of materialistic things but their way of life gives them such happiness ….what a blessing that they take nothing for granted but enjoy what they have. I think when you come home this is the blog that I am going to miss most of all….it’s been such a wonderful journey with you and through you it’s like we know the people you have been with and all their kindness to make you feel so included. If only the whole world could show more tolerance , kindness and generosity and most of all peace. So not only are you going to miss them so are the people reading this. Please convey if you can that you have friends who have Leo come to know them through you and are enjoying their guidance through their families and friends. Your guides have been amazing , Not to mention how good looking lol that helps a lot…takes me back to a field in Suffolk 😂🤷‍♀️
    Love Linda
    Xx💕

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    1. Thanks Linda, it has helped me keep grounded having my friends and family, reading and commenting. Yes, I remember camping with you too, I never met a person that went to sleep in a tent and wake up with their hair looking as if they had just come out of a hairdressers as you did 🤣. Mine doesn’t even look like that when I do come out of a hairdressers!
      I have a few days left and I’m saying “see you soon” to some of the people I have met. You might get one or two more posts because who knows what will happen 😉

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  2. Lol yes we are all avidly reading your posts if only to see what you are up to! No in all seriousness it’s been a wonderful journey…and don’t just say goodbye from yourself but from us too getting to know them through you🙌💕. Lol my hair still looks like that when I get out of bed , I don’t know why🤷‍♀️🤣. Chris is making bread rolls for the week for him and Lee as I can’t eat gluten….smells lovely though…I really miss bread lol something so simple as GF bread is awful!
    We look forward at you coming up at some point later in the year and look forward Chris says to seeing your travel book …we can buy one too! This is the trip that definitely needs those blogs and pictures in ! The colours , the history, the culture , the families, the guides and the friends you have made but most of all that you have very much enjoyed this trip……see you soon and enjoy your last days experiences and tell Kriti we have been very glad to see she & her family have been very much a part of your journey
    Much love Linda xx💕🙌

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  3. What I want to know is, when you do get back home, are you going to keep goats 🐐 in your new garage, build a clay oven in the garden, change your shed into a long drop toilet and filter your pond water?? We don’t want you feeling out of sorts, so you may have to re-adjust slowly 🙃. Here’s hoping your last days don’t fly too quickly and continue being the most amazing experiences 🏔️ ⛪️ 🇳🇵

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      1. I agree with Alison…you’ll need to adjust and find it strange being home!!
        Lol we could do with some of those Rhodes on our bank so we don’t mind if you bring some home!! Maybe sleeping in your sleeping bag out in a tent in the garden would help you to acclimatise as with the energy crisis it’s warmer outdoors than in here at the moment! Or get a goat to trim the lawn and few few Chickens for the eggs……or the Croc Pot! Really enjoy your last week or so…it’s been a great experience not only for you🤗 btw do they have a natural cure for Migraines? Xxx💞🌺🌺🌺

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  4. Would you be able to sneak some Rhododendron seeds back home? They would be a perfect momento for you 😘 🌺

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    1. I think we have enough rogue Rhodos in the UK. They are so invasive 🙁. It’s lovely to see Bamboo in the right setting too! The thing I would like to try is some of their veg, might need a Polly tunnel though!

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