On Saturday, we headed to another market in Tomok, as usual Ibu’s mum was already there and set up selling her fruit and other produce. She seems to enjoy being with her friends as much as the selling aspect of being there. There is so much fruit and vegetables it’s astounding! There are clothes, accessories and a tissue boy!
This lady told us chewing betel nut will keep us young. ‘Too late for that!’ Retorted Tatjana. That’s the leaf rolled up, the pebbles are slaked lime for preparation and the tobacco is if you want it!
When we got home, I had to break in via a partially open window as the key had dropped inside from it’s well known hiding place. That was a bit of a squeeze for me as I’m not so bendy as I was but, I managed! Glad it was a low window, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve done that in a previous incarnation and landed in a heap!
Later that day and to avoid going to church again we arranged to go up to Pea Farm for the night. Hery needed help staking his chillies, and no that is not a euphemism!
When we got there it was late in the afternoon and Hery had an English friend visiting, Pav from Birmingham. We got about half way through staking them when we all ran out of twine.
After working Pav taught us a new card game that he said had many names but, we will now just call it ,’Lake Toba’. It involves memory and I struggled with it that evening and sad to say most evenings since! Then Hery cooked and Tatjana assisted. I just sat and chatted to Pav.
Amangburo, the farm labourer has lost his shyness of us and joined us for dinner. He is a strange character, it seems he has been taken advantage of before, on a pig farm nearby. Half starved, not washed and poorly paid. Coming to work for Hery has been a transformation for him and Hery has told him never to work for just food again! Amangburo is a bit ‘child-like’ even though he is 52 years old and has a son (looked after by his brother since his wife died).
He always eats rice with his meal as many here believe that only rice gives you strength. On this particular evening we had mashed potatoes with our meal all beautifully presented by Hery (with his cruise ship training). Amangburo had his usual rice mixed with a little potato, Hery thought he would not like the mash. He helped himself to a huge pile and then went back for another plate full of potato! Ibu said when we told her later “of course he liked it he has no teeth”, hahaha!
Later when Tatjana and I were washing up Amangburo came in presumably to wash his dishes (as he does his own) he thought it hilarious that the westeners were washing up including his dishes, he was properly giggling!
Hery had some late guests and so we were washing up again later!
That night we slept on the mats in the cabin. Hery had made it super comfortable with layers of blankets.
The next day we could see people going to church below us on the lakeside and at Ibu’s parent’s house. I said ‘Hooray’ because we weren’t going and Tatjana as quick as a flash said ‘That’s the wrong one, it’s Hallelujah!’
On our last day, Pav arrived back at the farm as we were leaving, he persuaded us to play more ‘Lake Toba’. I wasn’t getting any better at it!
It was hot as we walked down from Pea Farmhouse (still litter picking). When we got back, I went for a swim first and washed my clothes. The water was so calm, it was like glass, I could see the fish, mostly red devils swimming beneath me. That will be a lasting memory for me.
Later we had a rather special meal with the family. I made the bumbu (sauce or paste) with the ‘wrestle’ and mortar, under Ibu’s directions.
The lobster, as Ibu called them (Crayfish to us I think) are from the lake and I found it quite difficult to break the carapace when eating and Ibu was helping both Tatjana and I out, as though we were her children. She was crunching her way through them with no problem.
Something I forgot to say was that when asked about us (while out and about) Ibu would say that Tatjana is a little bit Sidarbutar (dad’s family) and I am a little bit Sillalahi (mums family). This everyone found this very funny. On one occasion though, a woman asked her if I was actually Sillalahi (really!)
After the lobster dinner, when we were getting ready for bed Ibu’s mother asked to see us. She gave us each an ulos, (an Indonesian shoulder cloth) and by receiving it we became part of the family. It was very touching and it made me feel rather sad to be leaving.
I think for me Samosir is up there with Tasmania as one of the loveliest places I’ve visited.
Below just a few photos to remind me of the last two weeks. I will not miss our lumpy bed or constantly dirty feet ( walking barefoot in what is in effect a farm house is a bit of an issue). I won’t miss not being able to swim at midday because of ghosts in the water (I have no idea what that was about as clothes washing is ok) but I will the warm hearted people we met and the family.
This is not quite goodbye as next we take Ibu to see what North Sumatra is famous for……
The Travelling Bee 