Nepal 47, Clare about Kathmandhu

Before I carry on, I became aware of the plane crash here in Nepal rather late in the day today. I just want to acknowledge it and to say I/we are safe. I’ve had several friends checking up on me and I hope I responded to everyone. Thank you.

Princess Clare (her own description) arrived in Kathmandu, maybe not to a fanfare but not far off!Attendants pushing her trolley and me waiting to adorn her with a traditional garland of marigold flowers to welcome her here. Apparently she was whisked through all the airports as if she were royalty. Part of this is because of her eyesight issues and in part because she looks as though she has a broken foot. Actually she has scalded her foot (don’t ask!)

After a short rest, I took Clare around Thamel and she was agog at everything! And everyone was agog at her as she is about twice the height of everyone. I can see she is going to be trouble, men keep walking up to her and talking to her (not that she has understood anything they have said!)

In Durbar Square we sat in a rooftop cafe and had something to eat and local beer. The mountains were visible (presumably the smog over Kathmandhu had lifted a bit because it’s the first time I’ve seen them here) and Clare was just drinking it in. The waiter was really sweet and he recognised me from a previous visit. We didn’t do a tour today as Clare obviously was tired.

The next day I booked the guide I had had for my first Durbar Square tour, Krishna. He met us and he gave us a tour including the Living Goddess, who once again looked rather bored to me. What was different this time though was the amount of beggars and hawkers. As soon as Clare bought one thing they descended on us. Batting them off wasn’t so easy! Then I couldn’t resist a skinny little girl selling (second hand/stolen?) postcards and Clare ended giving one waif left over soup and another a sweet.

We returned to the rooftop cafe and the waiter Raj was chatting away to us. Clare has a charming and disarming manner about her and at the end of our meal and Raj said he would like to invite us to his home to meet his family and for Dhal Bhat (local meal) the next day.

Completely the opposite to the previous encounter I had had with a chap I’d met (Dev), I felt this guy was very genuine so we said yes and we arranged to meet him the next day.

We decided to take a trishaw back to the hotel to give Clare’s foot a break. It was a bit of a squash and I imagine our driver, who looked about half my size had his work cut out, so I’m just glad there were no hills to climb or we might have been going backwards.

Later that evening Clare and I went for a drink and found a bar with a real fire. Then a Nepali band arrived and started to play traditional instruments and music. Clare with ever increasing ebullience and charm persuaded the waitress to show us Nepali Dancing and so we got up and danced with her! A Fabulous evening and the staff seemed just as delighted as we were. One of the staff asked us to show him English dancing and Clare attempted a Waltz and I gave him a stab at Modern Jive. I don’t think we will be forgotten in a while! Well Clare won’t be that’s for sure!