I took a train and a bus to get to Swanage. This is where I finished the last leg of the coast a couple of years ago. Is it that long? So I’m continuing and as a friend said, I’ll be 100years old by the time I finish it! (If I finish it!)
I’m trialling a new rucksack, small and lighter than my old one but not as small as my 30 litre one. I like the Osprey brand and I’m really happy with my purchase this time. The other addition is a super light weight blow up bed!
Once off the bus and after something to eat I headed off. The weather sunny, humid and the wind blustering. I wandered up to Peverel Point and then climbed higher as I headed south and through the rather lovely Durleston Country Park, under shade of Holm Oak and pines and past there folly of Durleston Castle and then out into the open, it’s hot walking. I don’t have far to go 6 miles to my campsite but I’m all out of kilter with myself, walking too fast and my pack feels odd. As I get away from Swanage and fewer people are wandering the track I start to find my stride. I get to Dancing Ledge and turn inland. I have rock climbed near here and the view from the bottom of the cliffs is just as amazing, not for today though.
The campsite is at Toms Field (recommended by Margaret). It’s an enclosed site sheltered from the wind by Purbeck stone walls. As I pitched and settled down I realised my small stove connector was not the same as my gas cannister, good job I had had lunch and carrying lots of biscuits and nuts! This is a bit frustrating because I will have to carry what I cannot use the rest of my trip and when carrying stuff you become weight obsessed! who knew there were different connections! It’s not a disaster, I’m not miles from anywhere and I can probably live off my snacks for weeks.
My new sleeping mat was comfy but, I was too hot and probably a bit overexcited to sleep. I was also thinking about the next night because I couldn’t get hold of the next campsite and it may be a little exposed for wild camping along the coast.
I chatted to another walker about the path and he mentioned that there was a three mile diversion to a small village called Kingston as the cliff had collapsed at Houns Tout. This was going to be a longer walk than I had intended. There was also an amber weather warning for storms by lunchtime. Hmm!
Anyway up and away by 7.15 am and down a steep slope, startling a few cows on the way to the coast walk. The sun was up and the sky hazy. The coast here is stunning, walking high above the sea and glimpsing the undulating hills and cliffs in the distance. Wrens singing, butterflies (mostly white) even dragon flies zipping along the walk. It was lovely. England is beautiful!
The cliffs here have been mined for Purbeck stone and ever so often you would glimpse a cave. The thought occurred to me that there may be climbers I know on the cliffs beneath me.
Heading west, the sea is always on the left, Yes? the path is way marked? Yes! So how on earth did I end up in Winspit Quarry? Somehow I managed to walk into the area, this cannot be the way surely? It’s eerie and there were some tall poles stood in the area like antenna, all very baffling! I headed back in the direction of where I think I left the path and passed a huge sign saying it was not safe and being monitored for seismic activity! The sign post for the path and it is definitely misleading!
The next feature is at St Aldhelm’s Head as strange little square Chapel dedicated to the same, dating from the 1200’s a strange remote place. Inside are pews and the trappings of any church. I was delighted with the rather ironic infestation of devils coach horse beetles scurrying around inside.
After this high point came a very steep down and a very steep up. There were steps…..made for giants! I clutched the rail and my poles and made my way down slowly, then up the other side, very slowly!
I came to the point of the diversion and met the only person I saw, woman also carrying a large pack, she had not taken the diversion, she said it was fine but, I decided it was there for a reason and headed inland to Kingston.
Kingston is a pretty village and although the diversion meant a long walk it served me rather well, because if it had rained I could have caught a bus there and I was able to get a good meal.
Well the forecast weather didn’t arrive and so with a full stomach (bangers and mash!) from a rather good meal at The Scott Arms I waddled on!
The final leg of the day seemed long. The was scenery amazing. I saw a kestrel and sparrowhawk. I also saw clouds of goldfinches in the browning thistles.
As I got nearer to Kimmeridge I could see huge limestone pavements in the sea. Then the folly Clavell tower which sits above it all. I was really tired now, foot sore and wondering if I wanted to walk the extra 2 miles to a campsite that might be closed.
There were people swimming and enjoying the sun. The bay seems like something out of the 1950’s undeveloped and rather lovely. I ambled into the Wild Seas Center, run by the Dorset Wildlife Trust to ask about camping. I must say a lovely chap Dan, tried phoning the camp site for me and then offered to take me there once he’d closed up for the day. I must have looked wrecked! I’d walked 12 miles with 11 kg on my back!
The campsite was open and I’m grateful to Dan for dropping me off. I quite literally pitched my tent and then there was the most tremendous thunder storm! Well good to know my tent is waterproof!
Tomorrow is another day!
The Travelling Bee 