Nepal – Hiking to Chitlang

This a long post and it’s nearly the end of my journey so I want to get it all down now.

The bus strike continued so Raj suggested we try a valley he had not visited before. Apparently it used to be a well known trekking trail but, as the popularity and ease of access to the higher mountains developed some of the smaller trails dwindled.

We got a taxi to the start point south west of Kathmandu and set off…..you guessed it ‘up’. Raj cheerfully pointed to the steep mountains shrouded with clouds and told me “we have to go over them”.  I was puffed out from the start but for going eventually as I got my stride. At first we walked along a road and then we went off into the jungle. Somewhere along the line we ended up with two stray dogs for company. I mentioned these dogs on my previous trip. They obviously think we may feed them but, they behave like tame dogs, ranging then coming back, I wouldn’t touch one but, these were particularly sweet. One of them made me laugh when it was spooked by a fallen rock, in fact he couldn’t seem to get passed it for ages, he just barked at it. Raj eventually whistled and it came giving the rock a very wide berth!

The climb was mostly steps but as we got higher it became rougher and at times we were scrambling, well I was anyway! We crossed the rather rough road at various points. As we got higher the temperature dropped, it was pleasant after a hot humid start.

We saw white orchids everywhere, attached to trees, the rocks and soil as we climbed up.

Then finally we joined the road again and went over the pass. There was a ‘spit and sawdust’ restaurant where we stopped for buffalo (yes the meat) noodles. We made it in time because the heavens opened! Looking out the window (a hole in the side) we could see the Valley we were heading to lush, green looking and a long way down.

Setting off again (after the downpour) with the dogs in tow Raj suggested taking the road for a bit because if it was as precipitous as it was on the way up, it was now wet, slippery and potentially full of leeches? We did however have to go on part of the trail and it was OK. It is amazing how a range of mountains can be so different from one side to the other. It was like a different world, arable land and old farming methods.

The valley was beautiful and more surprisingly full of old buildings. These generally don’t fare very well with earthquakes so even for Raj this was unusual and he was happy to see it.

There were a number of homestay’s and Raj was checking them out, settling on The Goats Cheese Homestay. It was more like a bunk barn and it was OK and relatively clean. We were welcomed with a sample of the cheese and plum wine! The rain started again and we waited it out before exploring a bit more without our packs.

While we were exploring we came across a place with seven fountains, well that’s what is said on a sign, again fresh water from the hillside. To Raj’s right is a tree with stones at the base of it. Apparently these stones are now gods and covered in Tikka. Prayer, the spiritual world and the natural is so ingrained with Hindu beliefs that even marks on the pavement can become significant.

I did not sleep well, the bed was very hard despite putting the quilt under me. I got up with the light and went to phone Tatjana. She was a few hours ahead of me and it was a good time to catch up with her. I waited for Raj who emerged thoroughly refreshed. He had slept like a log and was full of the joys of spring! Actually I didn’t feel that bad either, there was another day of walking to look forward to.

After breakfast we were shown around the Goat Cheese Factory. We donned the gown and shoes and went to see the cheese making process! I am not sure this would pass our hygiene standards but it was really interesting!

We were each given a posy, a blessing scarf and tikka on the forehead. I need to say, on dark skin tikka looks very slightly pink, on white skin it looks like blood! And when it dried and fell off, it looked like a giant leech had been chewing my forehead!! Very attractive!

Leaving the village behind we headed off with Raj often asking the locals the way over hills and across paddy fields. He was keen to see a government goat field, whatever one of those is!

We climbed up high again and headed for a reservoir. But before we could see it there was a very steep downward path, I knew Raj was anxious “Are you Ok Mom?” he said as my foot slid on the pine needles. I made it down and we were both surprised to find a swanky restaurant/homestay at the bottom. We stopped there for lunch!

In Nepal, between each other people are addressed as brother or sister if they are in roughly the same age range, or mother, father son and daughter respectively. There are also formal ways to address someone equating to Sir or Madam I believe. So Raj calls me Mom as do all the family. It can get very confusing in groups!

We reached the reservoir only to find it very low, Raj wasn’t sure why, maybe in anticipation of the Monsoon season (any day now). We were tired and looked for accommodation but couldn’t find anything suitable. Fate intervened……

Luckily for us the bus strike had finished and Raj saw a bus below our path and whistled, miraculously it stopped and we practically ran down a hill to get to it. I put the picture in to show that the buses haven’t changed a bit. The music was loud and the interior gaudy. It was falling to bits, but it got us back.

One more post to go before the end of this trip!